Ford F-150 fuse box diagrams (1999 to 2026)

The Ford F-150 has two main fuse panels on every generation from 1997 onward: one inside the cab (passenger compartment fuse panel, or BCM fuse box) and one under the hood (Battery Junction Box, BJB, or Power Distribution Box). Some 2015 to 2026 trucks add a third smaller relay panel on the driver kick panel.

Fuse maps are printed on the back of each fuse box cover. The owner’s manual has the same map. Your VIN at owner.ford.com pulls the exact map for your truck. That source is more reliable than any third-party diagram, including this one, because Ford changed fuse assignments mid-generation a few times.

Below is what’s worth knowing without a giant table per year.

Fuse box locations by F-150 generation

The 2015 redesign moved the underhood fuse box to the passenger side. If you’re following an old YouTube video for a pre-2015 truck and the box isn’t where they show, that’s why.

Fuses that blow most often

Across all model years, these are the fuses owners replace most:

• Trailer tow / 7-pin connector fuses: Trailer wiring shorts (corroded plug, damaged ground) blow these constantly. Usually 30A or 40A in the underhood box. Multiple fuses on dual-rear-light trucks.
• Cigarette lighter / front aux power: 20A; blows when too much load (inverter, tire inflator) or a coin drops into the port.
• Radio / SYNC: 15A or 20A. SYNC freezes plus radio not working is sometimes a popped fuse, not a software issue.
• Power window: 25A or 30A. Stuck window can blow this. Wait for the window to cool before resetting.
• Air bag / SRS: 7.5A or 10A. Rarely blows; if it does, check airbag system carefully before clearing.
• Cooling fan / blower motor: 30A to 50A in the underhood box.
• Headlight (driver and passenger): Separate fuses on most years; one bulb’s wiring shorting will blow only that side.
• Brake light switch: Critical for cruise control, gear-shift interlock, and brake lamps. A blown brake light fuse means the truck won’t shift out of park.

How to read your fuse box

Every F-150 fuse box uses three pieces of identifying info:

1. Fuse number (printed on the box, sometimes molded in)
2. Amperage rating (color-coded; 10A red, 15A blue, 20A yellow, 25A clear, 30A green, etc.)
3. Function label (on the diagram, not on the fuse itself)

To diagnose:

1. Identify the circuit that’s not working (which light, which accessory).
2. Pull the cover off the cab fuse box. The diagram is on the inside of the cover.
3. Find the matching function label. Most F-150 diagrams group fuses by general purpose.
4. Pull the fuse with the included puller (or needle-nose pliers).
5. Inspect: filament intact = good, broken or melted = blown.
6. Replace with the same amperage. Never go up.

If a fuse blows again immediately, the circuit has a short. Stop replacing fuses and trace the wiring.

Tools that help

• Fuse puller: Most underhood boxes have one clipped inside the lid. If yours is missing, $3 at any parts store.
• Test light: A 12V probe-style tester (around $10) shows whether a fuse has power on both sides. Faster than pulling each one.
• Multimeter: For voltage drop tests when a fuse seems good but the circuit still doesn’t work.
• OBD2 scanner with Ford coverage: FORScan on a laptop with an ELM327-MS-CAN adapter ($25 to $40) reads body control module fault codes that explain why a fuse keeps blowing.

Common F-150 fuse layout patterns

Without printing the entire diagram for each year, these are patterns that hold across most F-150 model years:

For exact numbers, consult the diagram on your truck’s cover.

Special note for 2021 to 2026 trucks

The 14th-gen F-150 (and Lightning) use a more complex multi-rail electrical architecture. Many circuits are no longer simple fuses; they’re software-controlled relays in the Front Electrical Distribution Module (FEDM) and Rear Electrical Distribution Module (REDM). If a circuit doesn’t work and the fuse looks fine, scan the body control module before tearing into wiring.

This is also the F-150 generation affected by Ford recall 26C10 / NHTSA 26V104000. The recall covers an Integrated Trailer Module (ITM) software fault on roughly 4.3 million Ford vehicles, including F-150 (2021 to 2026), F-Series Super Duty (2022 to 2026), Ranger (2024 to 2026), Expedition (2022 to 2026), Maverick (2022 to 2026), Transit (2026), and Lincoln Navigator (2022 to 2026). OTA fix pushed March 2026. If your trailer wiring or trailer brake fuses are blowing or your truck shows trailer-related warnings, check the recall status by VIN at owner.ford.com first.

When the right fuse number isn’t enough

You’ll occasionally see a fuse on the diagram with a number that’s blank or marked “spare.” That’s normal; Ford leaves slots open for options like the 7-pin trailer tow package, ProPower onboard inverter, or trailer brake controller that the truck may or may not have.

You’ll also see fuses that share a circuit on certain options. The 7-pin trailer tow on a 2018+ F-150 with the OEM trailer brake controller draws from multiple fuses including the ITBC fuse, the trailer charge fuse, and the brake light fuse. Tracing the issue means understanding the whole circuit, not just pulling one fuse.

The owner’s manual section on fuses is more accurate per VIN than any third-party guide, including this page. Use it as the starting point for any electrical work.