Dinghy towing guide: everything you need to know
What vehicles can be flat-towed behind an RV, the equipment you need, and the 2026 reality on EVs, hybrids, and crossovers.
Dinghy towing (also called flat towing or four-down towing) means pulling a vehicle behind a motorhome with all four wheels on the ground. It only works on vehicles the manufacturer explicitly approves. Putting a non-approved car behind a motorhome will destroy the transmission within a few hundred miles.
The short list of what works in 2026: Jeep Wrangler, Jeep Gladiator, Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk and Trailhawk Elite (with Active Drive Lock), Ford Bronco (with 4WD/manual transfer case option), Ford F-150 4x4 with neutral-ready transfer case, Chevrolet Colorado, GMC Canyon, Chevrolet Tahoe and Suburban 4WD, GMC Yukon 4WD, Ram 1500 4x4, and a handful of others.
What does not work: most front-wheel-drive crossovers, every modern automatic-only car without a transfer case, the Jeep Grand Cherokee 4xe PHEV, the Ford Escape PHEV, and every battery-electric vehicle currently sold in the U.S.
Why most cars can’t be flat-towed
When you flat-tow, the drivetrain spins as the wheels rotate. On a typical front-wheel-drive automatic, that spins the input shaft of the transmission without the engine running, so the transmission’s internal oil pump isn’t moving fluid. Within minutes, internal parts run dry and overheat. Hours later, the trans is junk.
Vehicles that can flat-tow either:
- Have a transfer case with a true neutral position (most Jeeps and 4x4 trucks)
- Have a manual transmission that disconnects the engine from the wheels in neutral
- Are designed with a specific flat-tow procedure (some hybrids and AWD vehicles, rare)
If the owner’s manual doesn’t have a section labeled something like “Recreational Towing” or “Towing Behind a Motorhome,” the car cannot be flat-towed. Period.
EVs and PHEVs
As of 2026, no battery-electric vehicle sold in the U.S. is approved for flat towing. The motor regenerates as the wheels turn, which sends current back into the inverter and can damage it. Some EVs (Tesla, Rivian, F-150 Lightning, Ioniq 5, EV6) explicitly require a flatbed.
PHEVs are similarly restricted. The Jeep Grand Cherokee 4xe, Ford Escape PHEV, Toyota RAV4 Prime, and others are not approved.
If you have an EV or PHEV you want to take behind your motorhome, your options are a flat trailer (utility or car hauler) or a tow dolly under the front wheels (only for non-EVs without rear motors). Most EVs are flatbed-only.
The equipment you need
| Item | Purpose | Cost |
|---|---|---|
| Base plate | Bolts to the dinghy’s frame; provides tow bar attachment points | $400 to $900 |
| Tow bar | Connects the motorhome receiver to the base plate | $400 to $1,400 |
| Safety cables | Backup if the tow bar fails | $40 to $80 |
| Wiring kit (4-pin or 7-pin) | Powers brake / signal lights on the dinghy | $80 to $250 |
| Supplemental braking system | Applies the dinghy’s brakes when the RV brakes | $900 to $1,800 |
| Diode kit (for lights) | Isolates the dinghy’s tail lights from its own electrical system | included in some wiring kits |
The supplemental brake is the expensive piece. Roadmaster InvisiBrake, Demco SBS, RVi3, and Blue Ox Patriot are the common brand names. Most states require one. Federal motor home weight + dinghy weight will exceed the RV’s brake capacity without it.
Total for a complete first-time setup: $1,800 to $4,500 installed.
Step-by-step hookup
After everything is installed, the actual daily hookup procedure runs roughly:
- Pull the dinghy behind the motorhome, lined up straight.
- Extend the tow bar arms and connect them to the base plate. Latch and lock.
- Cross the safety cables under the tow bar and hook to the RV.
- Connect the breakaway cable for the supplemental brake system to the RV.
- Connect the wiring harness (4-pin or 7-pin) from the RV to the dinghy.
- Start the dinghy and put it in the manufacturer’s specified flat-tow setup (every car is different; the manual is the source).
- Shift the transmission to neutral or the transfer case to N as specified.
- Release the parking brake on the dinghy.
- Unlock the steering (turn the key to accessory or run, not lock).
- Shut off the dinghy.
- Walk around: tow bar latched both sides, safety cables crossed, wiring connected, lights working (signal, brake, tail), breakaway plugged in, no loose items.
This takes 5 to 10 minutes once you’ve done it a few times.
The flat-tow setup varies by vehicle
Each manufacturer has a specific procedure. Examples:
- Jeep Wrangler / Gladiator (manual or automatic): Transfer case in N, transmission in neutral, ignition key in ACC (not LOCK).
- Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk (with Active Drive II Lock): Specific menu procedure to enable “tow mode.” Time-limited; check the manual.
- Ford Bronco 4WD: Transfer case in N, transmission in neutral, ignition on accessory.
- Ford F-150 4WD (with mechanical transfer case): Transfer case in N, trans in neutral.
- Chevy Colorado / GMC Canyon 4WD: Transfer case in N, trans in neutral.
- Chevy Tahoe / Suburban 4WD: Specific procedure including starting and idling for a brief period before shifting.
Skipping a step (forgetting to release the parking brake, leaving the steering locked, forgetting to put the transfer case in N) is how you destroy a vehicle. The first 100 yards of a trip is where most damage starts.
Speed and distance limits
Most flat-tow approved vehicles have no specific speed or distance limits, but the practical recommendation is below 65 mph and a stop every 200 miles to verify nothing has come loose.
Some vehicles do have explicit limits in the manual:
- Older Honda CR-Vs (manual transmission, 2014 and earlier): up to 65 mph, no distance limit
- Some Chevy/GMC SUVs: limited to 65 mph
- Honda Fit (manual, older): unlimited
Verify with the actual owner’s manual for your specific year and trim. The manufacturer publishes a dinghy tow guide each year; Good Sam and MotorHome Magazine publish summaries that line up with manufacturer data.
What gets people in trouble
- Towing a non-approved vehicle (catastrophic damage)
- Leaving the parking brake on (dragging brakes, melted pads)
- Forgetting to release the steering lock (front wheels can’t track, sideways drag)
- No supplemental brake (illegal in most states, dangerous in any)
- Loose tow bar pins (the dinghy separates from the RV at speed)
- Towing an EV or PHEV (drivetrain damage)
- Driving in reverse with the dinghy attached (the tow bar will jackknife and damage both ends; unhook before backing up)
The last point is non-negotiable. Plan gas stops, campgrounds, and stops as pull-throughs. If you have to back up, unhook the dinghy first.
Insurance
The dinghy is covered by its own auto insurance for liability while flat-towed. Check that your motorhome policy and dinghy policy both list this; some insurers require an endorsement.
Cheaper alternative: tow dolly
A tow dolly lifts the front wheels of the dinghy off the ground and lets the rear wheels roll. Costs $1,500 to $3,000. Works on most front-wheel-drive cars (the rear wheels just spin), but does not work on AWD or RWD cars (those would need a flatbed).
Pros: no base plate installation on the dinghy; cheaper. Cons: more storage and setup time at the campsite (you have to do something with the dolly); the dinghy front tires take all the load; some states require the dolly itself to be registered.